Italian archaeologists have determined that Tuscan stonemasons used to furiously scrub Carrara marble blocks to remove fungal colonies that ultimately turned the surface black. Ancient builders learned about mold infestations on natural stone the hard way. All mold requires is moisture, dirt, and a porous surface. They will degrade the sealing properties of the sealer rapidly.It doesn’t take much for mold to develop on natural stone, especially in outdoor environments such as patios. Do not use bleach, pine sol, vinegar and other harsh cleaners. If you are using a good quality sealer on the grout (only the grout) and clean it regularly with a good quality netural pH cleaner it should last for 18 to 24 months being outside. You could try a small section and see what your comfort level is. As with many things I'm not sure what your skill level is and so it may prove a bit more challenging to work with. In reference to the re-sealing of the grout you can also follow Busta's suggestion above and use an epoxy grout. The other side of the coin is that for some novices a 20 x 20 tile can be much more difficult to work with when installing. The larger tiles typically create an effect of a larger more expansive area whereas the smaller tiles in some situations create a more boxed in feel. We'll have to make sure to maintain it during and after the installation. Would a 20"x20" work or should we stay with they 13"x13"? Our current concrete patio has some pitch. As now, we're going the porcelain tile route. It also seems like after grouting and resealing it'll be as slick as the porcelain tile. Not to mention possibly needing resealing when necessary. However throw in the sealant price, then we're looking at least about $200 more. I still like Travertine but found out that it'll need sealing, grouting and another layer of sealant.Ĭost wise it's comparable per foot with the nice porcelain tiles (stone like look and finish). I visited the store today and found has ruled out Slate due to the finish and long term performance. What Ken said is right plus you may look into epoxy grout that doesn't need a sealer. My company restores natural stone & tile and we see sooooooooooo many poor installations and maintenance problems because of mis-information. You do not seal the porcelain tile itself. Again, with porcelain you must be certain the grout is well sealed and kept that way. Making absolutely sure that the floor is pitched properly is CRITICAL or you will have standing water and this will be a thorn in your side down the road. They have many very good porcelain tiles that mimic stone. It should be honed, would need to be properly sealed (many different sealers to choose from so be careful) but versus porcelain it would be more maintenance. Travertine would be a good choice possibly. It shales (starts flaking and peeling), is much more suseptible to efflorescence etc. Yes there is "good" slate, but by and large slate would be the wrong application for what you're talking about. I would urge you NOT to put slate in any area subject to a wet environment. We're also open to other natural stone type or tile alternatives. What are the pros and cons between the slate, travertine and porcelain alternative? Looking for input on installation, finish and maintenance if any. Some recommended the porcelain tile alternative that resembles natural stone look. So far we like slate and travertine for the natural stone option. We plan to tile our uncovered outdoor concrete patio floor ourselves.
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